Inside microneedling...we are all wondering, “what is the downtime?” And, “what kind of improvement in my skin can I expect?”

What is Microneedling?

Microneedling is a procedure where an electric-powered pin device with fine needles is moved across your skin. The needles puncture the top layer of the skin and create a controlled skin injury (micro wounds) with the goal of improving skin texture and promoting collagen growth. Once a micro-injury is created with the needles, your body is stimulated to produce new collagen to fill them in as part of the healing process. This new collagen can make your skin look smoother, tighter, and more youthful. It can also help diminish acne scars.

What is the procedure like?

In the office, the first step is to wash your face with a gentle skin cleanser and apply numbing cream so that you will be comfortable. After the numbing cream has done its thing, the area should then be cleaned with alcohol or hibiclens (a strong anti-bacterial liquid) to prevent infection. Meticulous skin preparation is important to decrease the risk of superficial skin infections.

A pen device is evenly moved across your face, neck or chest, leaving pinpoint injuries that can bleed slightly. Optimal clinical outcomes are achieved when needle depths are adjusted to the specific skin location (and thickness). For example, thicker oily skin will require deeper needle penetration in comparison to the thin skin around your eyes. It is likely that multiple passes over the same area with the microneedle will be done.

Before and/or after the procedure, it is likely that a vitamin rich anti-aging serum or other topical treatment (like PRP- platelet rich plasma) will be applied. The channels in the skin that have just been created, allow these topicals to better absorb into the deeper layers of the skin.

Treatments are typically recommended 3-4 weeks apart and a series of 3-6 will give the best results.

Not all Microneedling treatments are created equal.

The difference in a microneedling treatment in a medical office and one in a spa or performed by an aesthetician is DEPTH. In a medical office, your provider is able to penetrate down to the dermal/deeper layers of your skin to stimulate collagen and elastin production and have a more significant impact on your skin. With a deeper depth you will see greater improvement in wrinkles and fine lines, acne scars, and even pore size!

What is the recovery time?

Just after the treatment, you will have a red face, slight swelling and likely pinpoint areas of bleeding. On average this slight swelling and redness may last from one to three days. Pinpoint spots of bleeding and bruising are less likely, but can happen. Hydrate your skin as much as possible to help your skin heal. If you also have PRP with your treatment, your skin will heal even more quickly! Your skin will look its best in a week or two - but full results (because building new collagen takes time!) may take a few months to appear. As always, protect those new fresh cells with daily sunscreen use - mineral sunscreens are best just after your procedure. I love the tinted zinc-based sunscreens, like ELTAMD UV daily SPF 40 or SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion SPF 50.

Can I do this at home?

For those do-it-yourselfers, there are some derma rollers (think a cylinder with needles) that are sold for home use. However, in studies they were found to only have modest results. This is because they can have shorter, thinner needles. These thin needles tend to break on the ends, causing unwanted injury to the surface of your skin. And the needles with the at-home kits are not sterile and almost impossible to clean. This puts you at risk of infection (including spreading warts or herpes simplex) or scarring. Microneedling is a treatment best left to the professionals!

What are some of the benefits?

Microneedling can improve: texture of skin, acne scars, pore size, stretch marks and fine lines and wrinkles. Relative to lasers and deeper peels, this procedure is fairly comfortable, low risk and short recovery. But remember that it can take multiple treatments to get a desired effect. I think of it like weeding the garden. The more you weed your garden, the fewer weeds you will have! With each treatment you will see fewer scars or wrinkles (which ever you are treating) as collagen grows after each session.

What are the risks?

Because channels are opened up in the skin, bacteria can invade and cause infections. Infections can then lead to scars as a result. This is very rare, but it is important to follow the post-procedure instructions to keep your skin clean and healthy.

One other serious consideration is the possibility of an allergic reaction to any of the topical serums that are used post procedure. The skin is a barrier for a reason. If you create little channels into the dermis and blood vessels, you have a higher likelihood of developing a reaction to any topical that is applied. If you have sensitive skin, you need to be especially careful because your skin will already be inflamed after the microneedling and make you even more likely to react to applied products.

Like any cosmetic procedure, microneedling can also have complications like scarring and pigment problems, but these are rare.

Cost?

Luckily, it can cost a quarter of the price of doing several laser treatments. The price can range from $300 to $500 per treatment and depends on what products are used with the procedure. If you have PRP done with your procedure, it will be closer to $500 per treatment (but is worth the extra cost!).

How does this relate to a “Vampire Facial”?

The Kardashians are always pushing the envelope and letting us know about it! The Vampire Facial was made popular when Kim Kardashian tweeted an image of her blood spotted face and then an article in the New York Daily News followed up with details.

With this treatment, microneedling is done and then your own blood (in the form of platelet rich plasma PRP) is applied to your skin. The PRP releases growth factors that stimulate collagen production and create new skin cells. The PRP and can also speed the healing process. It was reported that Kim paid $1500 for her procedure!

Take home message...

All this taken in account - microneedling in experienced hands can have some great collagen building benefits if you can sacrifice a couple days of potential down-time!

What is Microneedling All About?!